Grapes - a powerful ligneous vine.
It has a southern origin, so it can grow and bear fruit without shelter for the winter only in the southern zone.
But, thanks to the flexibility and plasticity of the vine, it is grown even in areas with extreme conditions.
Zones of viticulture are divided into covering and non-covering.
Each of them has its own bushes.
With a cover culture, plants are conducted so that the vines can be laid on the surface of the soil and covered with earth or other materials.
Enthusiasts cultivate grapes even in Siberia, growing in a trench. In winter, a capital shelter is built over the plant.
Grapes from cuttings: planting, variety selection
Each climatic zone has its own assortment of grapes. The farther south the place, the greater the variety of varieties grown there. When choosing, they are guided by the CAT indicator (the sum of active temperatures exceeding 10 ° C). Varieties usually indicate this characteristic. If in this area the sum of temperatures necessary for the ripening of a variety is not accumulated, it should not be planted there. Late varieties in the northern regions do not ripen. They lack the sun. Therefore, early grapes are cultivated there. Selection does not stand still. Now many varieties resistant to frost and disease have been created.
Propagation of grapes by cuttings
Diluting grapes is easy. It is easily propagated by cuttings. Do this usually in the spring. The vine is harvested in the fall and stored in the basement (in the sand) or in the trench.
• Plant grapes with cuttings prepared in different ways:
• Cuttings cut and soaked;
• Furrowed;
• Kilchevany;
• Shortened;
• Green.
For the first three options, the landing technique and technique are the same. Only terms change. The size of standard cuttings is 40-50 cm with three to four eyes.
Propagation by ripened (lignified) cuttings
In early spring, the vine is cut into pieces and prepared for planting.
There are several options for grafting this crop. In all methods, they strive to first form the roots, and then the leaves will sprout.
The fact is that usually buds first bloom and leaves begin to grow, and then roots form. This leads to the draining and death of unrooted plants.
To avoid this, resort to the following methods:
• Before planting, cuttings must be cut, because roots form better on a fresh cut. The lower cut is done through the knot or immediately below it. Upper - in the middle of the internode.
• Soak. Cuttings should gain so much moisture that droplets of water protrude on a fresh cut when pressed.
• Furrow. Apply wounds - scratches on the heel. This technique stimulates root formation.
• Gilch. Sowing - heating the lower calcaneal part of the handle. For this process, special kilchevators are made. They also grow in greenhouses or greenhouses. Turn the Chubuki upside down. Below, at the floor the temperature is always lower than at the top. Due to this temperature difference, callus begins to form on the lower sections, and then the root buds begin to form.
• They are treated with root stimulants: heteroauxin, rootin, or others.
To delay the blooming of the kidneys, the planted cuttings are spudded.
The planting dates of uncut cuttings are independent of the temperature of the soil in the root zone. They are planted earlier. Not cuttings are planted in the spring, as soon as the condition of the soil allows.
Salt-cuttings are planted when the soil warms up to 10˚C.
Planted in furrows or ditches, flooded with water in one or two lines. You can plant "under the scrap", making holes in the soil for cuttings with scrap.
After planting, cuttings of any length are spudded so that they do not dry out. There is another method of protecting them from drying out - waxing. To prevent drying, cuttings are dipped in molten paraffin.
Short cut grapes
In order to save vines for planting, you can take shortened cuttings: two-kidney or single-kidney. Shortened cuttings are planted in the ground, previously soaked in water for several days. A good result is given by landing on a black film, which is spread out about two weeks before landing.
Grapes from cuttings on the window
Mature cuttings (regular or shortened) can be rooted at home in the room. In March. The lower sections are treated with root formation regulators. Then put the cuttings in jars of water. The water layer should be 2-3 cm.
After ten to two weeks, eyes begin to open. Root buds later appear. When several roots appear, the cuttings are transplanted into containers. It can be cut plastic bottles, packages from milk or kefir, plastic cylinders. Cuttings are lowered into containers on a layer of substrate, then carefully fall asleep, watering and trying not to damage the roots.
The containers are placed in pallets and placed on bright windows. Moderately watered, without pouring, with warm water.
Rooted cuttings with green shoots are planted in mid-May, when the threat of spring frost passes.
Plants are placed according to the scheme:
10-12 cm in a row;
75-80 cm from row to row.
Pinch long sprouts, leaving 10-15 cm.
Such rooted cuttings take root well, as they are planted with a closed root system. By autumn, shoots on seedlings grown from short cuttings reach a meter or more.
Propagation by green cuttings
Cuttings are carried out in May - June when breaking green shoots. For rooting use greenhouses. A layer of sand 3-5 cm is poured onto a mixture of earth and sand. Watered. Broken shoots are cut into two-kidney cuttings. The bottom sheet is removed, half of the top is cut off. The tops of the shoots for cuttings are not used. Cuttings are kept in a solution of the root stimulant for 6-8 hours. Instead, you can dust it with root powder before planting.
Planted after 10 cm to a depth of 2-3 cm, sprayed with water and cover with a film or glass. Shade. You can whitewash glass with lime. Several times a day, sprayed with warm water (20-25˚C) from the spray gun. Two weeks later, callus appears. From this time, spraying is reduced to three per day. Rooting occurs after about a month. During this period, the plants begin to harden, opening for ten to fifteen minutes in the evening. Time is gradually increasing, bringing to a whole day.
Subsequently, rooted cuttings are left in place in a greenhouse or transplanted to a school. Do this in mid-June in the furrows 18-20 cm deep.
Landing pattern:
10 cm in a row;
75 cm between rows.
By autumn, rooted plants sprout up to 40-50 cm.
Care is similar to agricultural technology in ordinary nurseries. The only difference is more frequent watering.
Grapes from cuttings: care (photo)
The area where the cuttings are rooted and grown is called a school or nursery.
Care work in the nursery:
Tillage, weeding
10-12 days after planting, the cuttings are unleashed. Do this in two to three doses.
The soil in the school should be loose and free of weeds. On the surface, crusts should not form, that is, after watering and rains, loosening is mandatory, which is carried out every 10-12 days. In clean areas, the depth of soil cultivation is 7-8 cm, in overgrown with weeds - up to 15 cm.
Irrigation
Watering is required when growing cuttings. They usually carry it along the furrows. The first watering is carried out in two to three weeks after planting. Total watering should be at least four per season.
Grapes from cuttings: top dressing
After rooting during irrigation, fertilizers are added to the water. During growth, at least three top dressings are carried out. During the first two, all types of fertilizers are applied: per square meter:
• 10 g of superphosphate
• 10 g of potassium salt,
• 20 g of ammonium nitrate or urea
Introduce trace elements - boron and manganese.
As organics, slurry or chicken droppings in liquid form are used. At first they are fermented for about a week.
Take one bucket of manure for 2-3 buckets of water. Before making a bred: manure - 1:10, litter 1:15. One meter row requires one bucket of diluted fertilizer.
Foliar top dressing, which combines with treatments for diseases and pests, has a beneficial effect on growing seedlings.
Surface root removal
To ensure the development of roots on the heel of the handle, it is necessary to remove surface roots. To do this, dig up the ground near the seedlings and cut the roots located on the upper two nodes with a sharp knife. At the same time, shoots are removed.
Chasing
Coinage is usually carried out in early September, when the growth of young shoots began to fade, removing the crown with 3-4 underdeveloped leaves. Only strong shoots are minted, giving an increase of at least 60-70 cm.
Grapes from cuttings: pests and diseases (photo)
Grape Disease:
• mildew;
• oidium;
• black spotting;
• anthracnose;
• gray rot.
Pests:
• ticks;
• thrips;
• leaf-eating pests;
• scoops;
• cicadas.
Mildew and oidium are the two main ailments of the vine.
Mildew
The first treatment from them is carried out when 2-3 leaves develop on the seedlings. Sprayed with a one percent Bordeaux mixture. Further processing is carried out according to the scheme or, if necessary. After watering and rain, treatments are required. Fungal diseases develop under conditions of high humidity.
From mildew, the following systemic drugs have proven themselves well:
• gates;
• Mitsu;
• Efal-M;
• Mikal.
Oidium affection occurs in hot weather and is independent of air humidity.
Oidium
For prevention, grape seedlings are pollinated with sulfur. The first processing is carried out in a phase of 2-3 sheets.
Preparations from oidium:
• Bayleton;
• gates;
• Vectra.
Treatments are carried out twice a month. In this case, it is better to alternate drugs.
Spraying and dusting is stopped at the end of July. After July 20-25, seedlings are almost not affected by oidium.
From pests, drugs are used:
• Zolon, 30% ke;
• Match, cf .;
• Confidor, 20% v.k.
